Stone streets, castle views, and communist bunkers? Yes, please.
Tucked into the mountains of southern Albania, Gjirokastër is a UNESCO World Heritage city that feels like a movie set crossed with a living museum. Its Ottoman-era charm and layered history make it a must-stop on any road trip through the Balkans—especially if you’re already headed to the Blue Eye or Sarandë.
Here’s how to make the most of a day (or two) in Gjirokastër:
1. 🏰 Explore Gjirokastër Castle
This massive stone fortress towers over the city and has seen centuries of change—from medieval battles to Cold War secrets. The views from the top? Absolutely worth the climb. Inside, you’ll find:
- A military museum with old weapons and relics
- An American spy plane shot down during the Cold War (yep, really)
- Eerie prison cells for an extra dose of historic chills
📝 Pro tip: Wear sturdy shoes—it’s cobbled and uneven. Bring water in summer, it’s a hike.
2. 🧿 Wander the Old Bazaar
The heart of the old town is lined with souvenir shops, handicrafts, and cafés with killer views. The vibe is relaxed but rich with detail—from handmade carpets and filigree jewelry to colorful evil eye charms.
🎁 Great for: gifts, textiles, embroidered pillowcases, or that one-of-a-kind piece to pretend you’re cultured back home.
3. 🏠 Visit Skenduli House (or Zekate House)
These Ottoman-era homes give you a glimpse into how wealthy families lived centuries ago—multiple floors, separate women’s quarters, and stunning woodwork.
Skenduli House is still run by the family’s descendants and includes:
- A guided tour
- Original architecture, including secret escape routes
- The best preserved interiors in town
📸 Bring your camera—it’s a step back in time.
4. 🍽️ Eat Like a Local
Gjirokastër’s food scene is traditional, hearty, and deliciously affordable. Look for dishes like:
- Qifqi: rice balls seasoned with mint and herbs
- Tavë kosi: baked lamb in yogurt
- Fresh pomegranate juice and strong Albanian coffee
⏱ Bonus tip: Restaurants take their time here. Order a drink and enjoy the mountain air.
5. 🌿 Visit the Cold War Tunnel
Underneath the city lies a secret 800-meter-long Cold War bunker, complete with over 50 rooms built to shelter Albania’s elite during a potential nuclear attack.
🎟️ Tours are cheap, fast, and super weird—in the best way.
Optional Add-On: Stay the Night 🛏
The charm of Gjirokastër kicks up a notch after the day trippers leave. Sunset over the stone rooftops? Unreal. Many boutique hotels are converted heritage homes with rooftop terraces and killer breakfasts.
Final Thoughts
Gjirokastër is one of Albania’s most underrated destinations—it’s compact enough for a one-day stop, but layered enough to reward a longer stay. Whether you’re in it for the history, the architecture, or just the excuse to eat more qifqi, this little mountain city delivers.
🧳 Packing tip: Sturdy shoes, a wide-angle lens, and maybe a snack if you’re not into slow dining.